NEW POST!

First of all, this post is dedicated to Nana and Papa Johnson who haven't heard from me yet, but will be as soon as I get more credit for my phone!

this post shall be in list-form since it will be everything i can remember of what i've done:

-i went to lido. lido was amazing (a cabaret) but kind of fake, and eerie because none of the dancers were invested in the show. we saw lots of sparkles, fake diamonds, and crazy entre-actes like skating, and dressage.

-i went to the opera. it was so glorious that i cried. that is literally one of my life dreams realized, and it was amazing. the opera garnier is beautiful, and the ballet we saw was equally as incredible as the facilities. i can't believe the bings got us such good seats!

-i went to barcelona. barcelona was amazing, jw and i went to the best lunch spot EVER, midori and i got lost running and ran through a super cool park, we sat along the water and looked at boats. the weather was fabulous, as was the gaudi architecture. not so amazing was the fact that i was robbed of everything, and had to go to madrid to get a new passport. (more on that later.)

-i went to amsterdam again, it was beautiful and the weather was better this time. we saw a giant multi-block tulip market.

-work is overloading me right now. i can no longer prioritize for the purposes of time management. what is more important? going the extra few blocks to get a good sandwich to savour my last days in paris, or running... ughhh running, that's it's whole own issue.

-i had a heart-to-heart with my host mum last night, in which she admitted that she hadn't wanted to take in a student, but was glad that i had come. it was nice.

-we went to get molecular food in barcelona, which was GREAT.

-i want to buy everything that i see now.

-i have to go get food now and keep working around the clock on various projects/papers, etc.

-i can't wait to see north america again, though i'd also love to live in europe.

-i will be speaking franglais for the rest of my life, it feels like.

-i got chalk thrown at me and catcalled by boys while trying to do sidewalk chalk for Mark's class...

I REALLY HAVE TO GO. more later, i'm so sorry i was so bad at keeping up!!!

xoxo

happenings

Since my last post, I wouldn't say much has happened. This week has been very busy, though, with a lot of different commitments.

Thursday after presenting our "works of art" in Mark's practicum class, ce professeur eccentrique (Mark) took Midori, Ashley, and I out for lunch in the Marais. Mark and I shared a cheese fondue that was very good. We learned at lunch that Mark never drank until a Danish family he was staying with forced him into being a wine connaisseur. (He still only drinks a glass at a time, or thereabouts.) He can tell you about the nose, the colour, and the legs of just about anything from Bordeaux. The wine he ordered for us was a 9/10 on his pocket wine chart, so essentially it was awesome. He told us stories about growing up as a musician, living in Paris, the States, and Denmark. He's awesome.

After that, we were supposed to meet at IRCAM (musical research school linked via secret tunnel to the Pompidou Centre), for a tour and a concert. It was pretty cool, we got to sit in one of those Cagean-silence rooms and listen to our nervous system and the blood pumping through our veins. It was really crazy. (Imagine a room so silent that the only sound is your body working.) The concert after was a bit of a letdown, but the musicians were top notch. (It was a string ensemble: 2 violins, a viola, and a cello.)

Friday we went out for karaoke, which was fun. Before that, Ashley, Mackenzie, Midori, and I ventured by train to Fontainebleau, an old royal castle situated just outside of Paris. I actually would recommend a visit to Fontainebleau more than a visit to Versailles. In the words of Napoleon I, "This is the true house of Kings." (Because pretty much all of the monarchs lived there for centuries, versus Versailles which was new and had much less history.) Or something like that... Anyway, Mackenzie lived in Fontainebleau for 2 years when he was nine, so he kept having weird flashbacks which was fun. The village there is pretty charming, and the castle's grounds are beautiful and full of peacocks of all sorts. It's easier to visit Fontainebleau, because it's pretty much devoid of tourists. The rooms are also immaculately restored, and oh-so-beautiful. I think the royal balcony in the chapel is the most beautiful room I've ever seen. Other highlights include trying to sneak onto the throne (used by Napoleon, etc.) in the throne room. (One of the few european throne rooms still intact.) Thankfully, Mackenzie spotted the motion sensors before I decided whether or not I wanted to go for it. I spent the rest of the tour listening to the audio guide and trying to assess the value of the castle, in preparation for buying it one day. I must live there. (I have a lot more to say about this place but it's going to be too long so meh.) Also, on our way back to the train we passed a patisserie that Mackenzie remembered from when he was little. He said he used to always buy the "religieuses" there, so we stopped in for pastries. Mackenzie and I each bought a religieuse, and it was the best pastry I've ever had in my life. Thus, I ate it all even though I was feeling sick by the end from all the chocolate mousse! (True to form.) Also mum I don't know if you remember that cooking show we all watched that one time with the French woman who made those cheesy bun-type puff pastries? They were an appetizer? Anyway, I got one of those for us to all split and it was AWESOME. We should make them sometime.

Yesterday Midori, JW, and I went to les egouts (the sewers) of Paris, where you can take tours and learn about the Paris sewer system. On the way I had the most terrifying cab experience of my life - think along the lines of "Where do you live? When can I see you again? What if I don't stop, I'm off work, you know..." All in all, no bueno. Les egouts was pretty cool, minus the awful smell. We learned all about the different periods of Parisian history, and funny enough, Napoleon I actually said one of his greatest contributions to Paris was the clean water supplies that he supplemented! My advice for any of you who might go there some day: don't stare too long at what's in the water. Afterwards, we fought the snowy wind over the Seine to a cafe. The cafe we stumbled into was very ritzy, so we just ordered coffees and sat for what seemed like hours talking about what seemed like everything. Last night we tried to go out on the Champs-Elysees, but didn't want to pay cover so ended up in a pretty cool lounge instead.

Today, my host family is leaving for their castle in the countryside. Literally, they have a castle. But don't worry, they told me it's really hard to heat. ("You know castles," they said.) They will be gone for 2/3 of the upcoming weeks. I wish I could go with them, and they said they would've invited me, only they'll be there during the week (back on the weekends), so looks like I'll be missing out. Oh, and they mentioned in passing the other night that last September they organized a conference of 600-1000 people at Versailles. It was for all of the nobles of Europe. The topic was, "How will nobles affect the future history of Europe?" Un.real. They are very nice, and I really like them. I was chatting with my host mum the other day about relationships (since all her daughters are married to French men she's interested in learning about how non-traditional non-French relationships work), and then somehow we were talking about what I'd be up to this week. I told her that a few of our girl friends were thinking of getting together, and I said, "Kind of like a sleepover." Obviously this led to me having to explain what a sleepover was, and my host mum thought that seemed like just about the "funnest" idea she'd heard in a while. Thus, I am allowed to host a sleepover for "filles serieuse" (serious girls) while they're gone. She said she trusts me and my judgement, which is nice of her. (No, friends from home, this does not mean I'll be throwing a rager. It means I'll be worthy of trust.)

Anyway, I need to actually have a shower and actually start being productive. I ate lunch with my host family, and can't access the Stanford library/research sites (because they're closed between 4 and 8 am West Coast time) to do my homework. I think I'll go out and get some groceries for the week.

Miss you all, bisous!

Jen

much to relate

Bon apres-midi from Paris,

I suppose I should figure out how to put in accents. Meh. There is much to relate. Stick with me.

Since my last post, Midori and I went to get our hair cut at this crazy salon called Jean-Louis Desforges, which is part of a chain. When we walked in, literally the whole salon turned to stare at us, and the guys who worked there kept asking, "So how did you find out about this place?" As it turns out, the place specialized in short haircuts, and there was a couture-like hair show being played on a flatscreen as we waited. There was only one woman who worked in the salon. Everyone was dressed completely in black, and the decor was really simple. Also, they seemed to have a few people on the go at one time, so the seating plan kept being juggled around. Evidently, since Midori and I were the only young girls in the place, "on a subi" (we were submitted to) typical service-industry-type flirting from everyone. Aah, Paris. Mid's stylist and I were conspiring behind her back to lose some length, and Meach took it like a champ. She made some good decisions, so her hair looks fabulous. I almost cried when mine was done, because I just told my guy to do whatever he wanted, and he cut me some blunt-cut bangs. I'm getting used to them, but it was pretty shocking at first! Also it's very short, but thankfully he kept some longer bits in front so i think the overall effect is good. However, the best part is that Mark told me that I can count it for my practicum project, so I can get reimbursed. (Don't ask me how that's possible. I need to find the receipt.) 

I think it was that night, Mark took the students in his classes to a CRAZY restaurant. It was one of the best culinary experiences I've ever had. We started off walking around the Marais district, where one of Mark's classes gave a fake tour to the other class. (i.e. Mark told us to make stuff up about our assigned locations, starting out with possibly true facts, maybe even mixing in some truth, then moving to things that were just absurd.) The tour finished around the Centre Pompidou (modern art museum), where he took us to the secret location of the restaurant. It was called "Dans le Noir" ("In the Dark"), and everything was pitch black except the lounge and reception. When you go into the restaurant, you have to put all of your belongings (especially things that emit light like watches and phones) in to a locker. Then you get in a single-file line, put your right hand on the shoulder of the person in front of you, and a blind server leads you to your table. You cannot see anything. Not even shadows of things. I literally had to feel around the table for my cutlery and glass, and good luck pouring the water or the wine! (You don't even know which one is which.) Our appetizers glowed. Also, the food was really good. You can imagine that, if you can't see anything, the food better be a good feature. Cutting in the dark is hard, and so is knowing where your food is. As a result, some of us resorted to primitive man techniques such as eating with our hands, or spearing something with a fork and biting it. After we were done and had filed back into the reception area, they showed us pictures and descriptions of what we had eaten. Like I said, crazy. We've been lucky to have Mark with us on this trip, that's for sure.

This weekend was our Bing trip to Flanders. If you don't know, Flanders is a region made up of the very northern tip of France, and part of Belgium. They speak Flemish, English, and French. Friday we took the train to Lille, where my host family's son-in-law is a Magistrat. (Roughly speaking he's a judge.) Lille was more fast-paced than the other places we visited. We ate in a brasserie for lunch called Les 3 Brasseurs, where they brew their own beer, and ate traditional food which I won't detail as this post is already too long. Unfortunately, this day marked the beginning of many walking tours, and our guide was awful. She was not interesting and seemed to always pick out the darkest, coldest, windiest spots for us to listen to her speak at. (That was an awkward sentence.) We also went to one of the coolest museums I've ever been to, which was located in the old communal baths of Lille! The tour guide there was very interesting. Dinner that night was on our own, and we sought out another brasserie where I tried frog legs for the first time! Props to Midori and JW for ordering them, I was too sketched out. (P.S. I have tried to teach the word "sketchy" to my host family. They pretend like they get it but I have a sneaking suspicion that they have no clue what I'm trying to say.)

The next day, we woke up really early and took a bus to Gent (sp? There are like a million ways of spelling that town's name). We crossed the border without much fanfare, as the north of France and Belgium more generally just seem pretty pastoral. Gent was my favourite place we went this trip, and I highly recommend seeing it if you're ever in the area. It's very picturesque, with crazy stepped roofs, and twisty-turney alleys that surprise you with glimpses of the river. Also, the beer is very good, and so is the waterzoi (supposed to have a symbol there that I don't care to find). Waterzoi is a traditional fish or chicken dish in a light cream sauce. We took a walking tour, this time with an awesome guide who could speak 5 different languages. For lunch, we split up and found a brasserie to order lunch at. It was pretty good, though there seemed to be only one waiter serving a full two-floor restaurant, so the service was very slow. We didn't get waffles, which we had highly anticipated. That afternoon we took a tour of a castle, which was freezing. (As a side note, this entire trip was freezing cold. I think our last day in Belgium it was -10 including windchill.) That night was when we had waterzoi for dinner, which was very good. Funny enough, Roberto (Stanford staff) chose a really hip and trendy restaurant for us to eat at. We got cocktails first up in the 2nd floor lounge before dinner, and then moved to the first floor to eat. The staff was young and good-looking, and there was a noteworthy failed attempt to collect a number amongst the guys. (Sorry, it had to be put in for posterity but I won't name names. :) ) The washrooms were very cool. The glass was transparent when you first walked in to a stall, then it became fogged as you locked the door. One last comment about the meal: the presentation was excellent. Good choice, Roberto.

The next day was all about Bruges, which actually was a bit of a disappointment. First of all, it was way too cold. Coming from a Canadian who has played sports wearing shorts, a long-sleeve and a jersey in sub-zero temperatures, hopefully you know that I'm not just being a wimp. People were wearing two pants, some people wore 7 sweaters = too cold. Our tour guide was pretty bizarre, and had very bad teeth. Thankfully, we still managed to have a pretty good time though at this point we were all veeery tired and somewhat cranky. Highlights of Bruges included hitting some skipped boxes on the list: moules frites, chocolate, and waffles, all of which were excellent and memorable. During our free time before the lunch break, Heimunn, Midori, JW, Michael, Mackenzie, Farah, and I went to the restaurant across the street from our lunch destination (with the rest of the group) to get mussels and fries. It was really good, and the food was made even more enjoyable thanks to a very warm fire that we were sitting next to! We ran across the street (it was going to take too long to put all of our layers back on) for our Stanford-sponsored lunch, which wasn't as good but was still nice. (FYI, Stanford is set-menu, that's why we went to the mussels place to make sure we got them before we left.) After that, we took horse-drawn carriages around the old town, and visited the museum inside the old hospital. It was creepy, our tour guide was boring, and we were too sleepy to care much at that point. Overall, the museum was a failure. After thaaat (I promise this is almost done), we had some free time and decided to gear-up and get some coffee and waffles after chocolate shopping. I had a waffle with bananas, whipped cream, and chocolate. The server didn't want to give me chocolate (which I had asked for) because he said the combo would be too heavy for the waffle. Well, it was still delicious if not traditional. After that, we bussed back to Lille to catch a train back to Paris. We watched "In Bruges" on the way back and pretty much came to the conclusion that we agreed with Colin Ferrell that Bruges isn't all it's made-up to be. Gent was definitely the winner.

So after all that adventuring, I decided to come home and get some sleep, right? Wrong. Even though I had had basically no sleep, I went with Natalia, Heimunn, JW, and Midori to a 24-hour, extremely popular art exhibit called "Picasso et les maitres". Props to Midori for finding this online, because it was packed and pretty cool. (But not pretty cool because it was packed.) The time we bought our tickets for was 2am, so no rest for the weary. Instead, it was unpacking, uploading photos, and getting coffee at a brasserie beside the Grand Palais, where the exhibit is being held. People were waiting in line for hours, so thank goodness we bought our tickets ahead of time. There were news crews, and even Europe 1 (I think a European radio station) was there. When we came out of the exhibit it was snowing, so we had a very chilly (and beautiful) walk to the Champs-Elysees to flag down some cabs. (The metro doesn't run at that time.)

So this is long now, but I pretty much woke up and started writing this while it was all fresh in my mind. I'm still very tired, but am feeling better than yesterday! I have painting class at 1:30, so I had better get a move-on before too long. After that, I'm going to Midori's host family's house for dinner at 7pm. I am living a crazy, busy life at the moment. Will try to add photos/details when possible.

salad of ideas

This is a pic of my room! Below it is a pic of the Comedie Francaise, where we went for our Bing outing to see the Mariage of Figaro!

The internet is a wonderful thing! I've only had it for a day now at my host family's house, and already it's revolutionizing my life. For example, I can look up hostels for Barcelona, do homework, and figure out where to get my hair cut at 10pm! Sweetness.

Today I remembered that the soldes won't be lasting for much longer. As a result, I am in a panic trying to convince myself that, no, I don't need more clothes. Or shoes. Or accessories. Or even just socks? Aah, I want everything.

Today I had WWII class early in the morning, which I was half-dead at. I've been really tired since we got back from Dublin, so I'd better make up for some of that sleep debt before we leave this weekend for Flandres. At 2 (14h) I'm meeting up with one of my art history classes at the Louvre to discuss Ingres. There has been a ton of reading for that class, and basically the novel I just (mostly) read just says that Ingres was the laughing stock of the Salon during his membership. (The Salon du Louvre was like "the" art association back in the day. Being a member meant that you were regarded as a legit painter. Maybe kind of similar to a Rhodes Scholar in terms of its status?)

I am slowly becoming self-conscious of my writing on this blog. I feel like, as a creative writing major, you will all be judging how interesting/engaging/funny this is. Well too bad for you, because I'm just writing things as they come and not editing. (Though I will not be posting any poetry =/= too bad.)

I've been having good talks with my host family lately about religion, France in WWII, and painting. For my birthday, my host parents bought me two books (on Michel-Ange and l'histoire de la mode). My host mum also made six mini cakes, with candles. It was super nice of them. It's weird, I'm starting to feel like we're becoming friends but it's still super awkward because... well... it just is? (I just realized I forget how to use ellipses.)

Anyway, I wanted to start researching some hairdressers and maybe a nail salon (choosing one as a belated b-day activity), so adios! I'm going to try to pepper in some random pics/vids with this one. I guess explanations will follow at a later date.

xoxo

More fun things that I forgot I did

I forgot about an entire day that was really fun in Paris a while ago.

I went to Les Halles (the old marketplace) to do some early shopping. After that, I met up with my friends Mackenzie, Michael, Hei Munn, and Midori. Then a few of us went out to lunch at a traditional french restaurant called "Pied de Cochon". This restaurant is famous for serving traditional (wow that word has like no synonyms, sry) french cuisine. This means huitres (oysters), pig feet, tripe, pig's head, and other such grossness.

Since JW's dad generously took us all out, naturally I felt inclined to try everything. I ordered tripe (not realizing what I was ordering) which was gr-oss. I literally couldn't eat it. On the other hand, I tried foie gras, pate, oyster, and shared escargot with Midori. I really like oysters. They're kind of slimy, but not as crunchy as I thought they would be. Also, I now love duck. (I am resolving to love goat cheese by the end of these 3 months.)

After lunch, Michael, JW, and I went to a MONUM tour. In Paris, the National Monument Association (or whatever it is) offers free tours every day about the history of Parisian monuments, historical districts, etc. We learned about the "Les Halles" area, mostly in terms of it's restaurants and the Eglise St.-Eustache. This tour was AWESOME. It was filled with all of these tiny old French people who seemed glad just to see someone young at close proximity. During the tour, our guide took us in to restaurants, stood behind the counters, and lectured to us while the servers were taking orders, chipping in historical information, and laughing along with the rest of the group. Only in Paris.

Anyway, Mid and I are off to meet up with another Stanfordian, Andrew, for dinner here in Dublin. Peace out!

Dublin!

Hello hello from the emerald isle!

Weather has treated us very well so far. Ireland is an awesome place! The way there was quite an undertaking, as Beauvais airport (where the cheap airlines fly out), is located pretty far outside of Paris. Also, on the way in to Dublin, my ears nearly didn't pop on the plane and thus hurt a lot! It turned out alright in the end, though, and we made our slow way by bus to the hostel. Our hostel is pretty nice. Dublin is pretty small, so we're within walking distance of most of the things you would want to see. (Minus the horse races, unfortunately.) The only drawback is Midori and I's roommate Nathan (booking coed rooms was much cheaper, so we took a chance) who is a die-hard Man United fan and smokes and drinks alone all day in our room. Other than that, the front desk is very friendly/helpful, and we get breakfast in the 'morn.

Our first day flew by pretty quickly. We ended up getting a cheap dinner at a kebab place, and went to a local pub called the Bleeding Horse for drinks after. I started ticking boxes off of my irish checklist by ordering a pint of Guiness (for you, dad!). Pubs here are PACKED. There is barely any room to move around, let alone sit. Most are multi-level, and have live entertainment that is AWESOME. (That and St. Stephen's Green are my favourite parts of Dublin.) There is a video of that to follow. After watching a bit of football and having a couple of pints at the Bleeding Horse, we headed towards the downtown core and ended up at a place called the Stag's Head. Thankfully, we were able to squeeze into a corner on the lowest of the three floors, and parked it there for most of the night, listening to the amazing traditional music.

Yesterday we took a free 3 1/2-hour walking tour of the city that included mostly all of the highlights. Our tour guide was very funny. Things here are GREEN. As in, the greenest grass and bushes, etc., that you've ever seen in your life. It's like being in Oz or something. (Pictures to follow, I don't have my cable to upload them with me.) Among the things we visited were Trinity College, Dublin Castle, and St. Stephen's Green. Dinner was at a restaurant recommended by the front desk (that we didn't get in to the night before because we had no reservation), and it was GREAT. It was ten euro for entrees, and we shared starters and desserts. I ticked a couple more boxes off the checklist with Bailey's, Smithwicks, and a couple of irish whiskeys (e.g. Paddy), by the end of the night. After dinner, we went to a pub called Temple Bar, which is "the" famous pub in Dublin. Drinks were expensive, it was literally packed with people (especially "stag" and "hen" parties), so we left pretty quickly and ended up in a smaller joint with, once again, superb live music. This time, the musicians were doing irish takes of hit songs. After that, we hit up da club on the way home. It was packed with girls, and awkward eurodancers. Thus, we left.

Today we wanted to go on a tour of a distillery. We chose Jameson. The tour was basically filled with propaganda about why Jameson is the best, but Midori and I were selected as part of a group of volunteers to be taste-testers at the end. We sat at a table with eight others (in front of the group), and went through the process of comparing 12 year-old premium scotch whiskey, Jack Daniels, and Jameson. Jameson was agreed to be the best (surprisingly). For participating, Midori and I got certificates with our names on them that "certify" us as "official whiskey tasters". Tonight we are planning on eating/hanging out at/in a pub. My flight leaves at 6:35 tomorrow AM. (= yikes!)

Tomorrow I am planning on going to Pere Lachaise cemetery for Applebaum's class to visit Jim Morrison, among others. Also have my painting class, and am somewhat dreading our new unit: portraiture! Stay tuned for new pictures and videos when I get back!

Jlu

Vancouver comes to Paris

...So today it's raining a lot. I'm in the centre, and it's too late for me to make the metro to meet the rest of the girls for the fashion museum. I think I'll probably go visit a building for one of my classes, get a sandwich to go, and spend the rest of the day inside. It is quite cold when it rains, but not brutally cold like home.

I'm currently trying to upload some of my videos. I have some really great ones from the field trip with Mark (experimental music studio), and from the PSG game. (The graffiti in my last post is from the field trip. The building is called the "frigos" because after WWI it was used as a food storage fridge. Now it's run-down and has been tagged by graffiti artists.) Hopefully the upload will be possible. Crossing my fingers with the internet.

Last night all of us in the Paris Arts Practicum or the Survey went to Mark's house for wine, cheese, quiche, amuse-bouches (hors d'oeuvres that can be eaten in one bite), and delicious desserts. We were told some very interesting stories about his friends, and travels to Ethiopia and the Arctic. Also, I learned that one of the cheeses had ash on it. Eugh. JW tells me this is normal for cheese. I say this isn't normal for anything. (Who eats ash!?) I was happy, however, that my family had given me a thorough education on how to cut cheese from the cheese platter a couple of nights ago.

As I wrote that last paragraph it occurred to me that I perhaps haven't stated which courses I'm taking! They are as follows:

-painting and use of colour (taken at an art school)

-a history class of WWII taught by a French historian

-Mark's Paris Art Practicum (we make art)

-Mark's Paris Art Survey (we go look at art)

-nineteenth-century art

Tonight is our first Bing-sponsored field trip. We are going to the Comedie Francaise, one of the most traditional, old theatre companies in Paris! We are going to see Le Mariage de Figaro, again that word, traditional play. It's going to be three hours long! Also, we have to be there at 8 (20h), which is usually dinner time in Paris. Thus, my family is eating early, *gasp* at 19h!

Some of my friends and I are thinking about spending the rest of our reimbursement money (100 euro total) for Mark's class (we have to go to cultural events each week, last week was PSG) on a meal at a Michelin restaurant. Since there are many things we can do for free and can still report on (like going to museums for free because we're art history students, or even just riding the metro), I think this would be a great investment. More to come on that, I suppose.

Ah, I see that some of my downloads aren't working! You'll have to miss out on some vids. But here is one that worked:

till later!!!

Reflections on Paris Thus Far

So the 8th of January (my sister's birthday) I said goodbye to my family at the hotel. After they left, I took a taxi to the hostel where I was to stay with other Stanford students. Orientation went by in a whirlwind. Needless to say, the Bing family was excessively generous in the gifts they have given to us students. I thought of my sister (who was given few or no tools for her 6-month stay in Paris) as we were given an entire packet of information, Navigo cards, BNP account cards, money, free trips, free tickets, and des tas de remboursements deStanford. (I might lapse into French a little bit as I am now leading a double life. Also, my English might be rusty/incorrect!) All in all, students from our school are very lucky, and very spoiled, to have access to all of the wonderful opportunities and information given to us by our school. (Thankfully our group is very conscious of that.)

After orientation, our group disbanded to head to our familles d'acceuil (host families). I was surprised (and BEYOND excited) to find out that I would be living in the 7th arrondissement, in fact, right down the street from Melissa's old school! I live on the same street as Prada, YSL, Christian Louboutin, (etc.), and across the street from Moschino! In fact, I live kiddy corner (sp?) to a cafe where my family and I ate last summer. I am a ten to fifteen minute walk from school, and only two metro stops away. If I travel 2 blocks, I am at a Laduree, and 4 blocks take me to the edge of the Seine, facing the exact middle of the Louvre. Yesterday, I read a biography of David in which he was said to have been walking down my street pondering his next big painting. This is vraiment le paradis.

The family I am living with is lovely. As you might have guessed by my description of our area, they are anciens aristocrats: their last name, de Gatellier (emphasis on the DE) indicates that they are so. I have taken several pictures of their apartment. It is in the Louis XIV style, I would say, "Belle Epoque", with a formal salon and dining room. My room is very spacious, and the bed is lofted and recessed into the wall. I am currently experiencing problems connecting with their wifi, but hopefully this will be resolved by next Tuesday. In terms of who is in the family, I am staying with an older couple, whose four children are married and have left the house. The man's name is Bernard, and his wife's name is Claire. Their children range from old (I don't know how old but she has 3 kids), to young (22). My favourite of their offspring is Charles (who was the first de Gatellier I met and carried my luggage up all of the stairs), and his wife, Diane. Charles likes to hunt (everything that moves), and studied for some time in England. Diane is an English teacher who still takes classes with the hope of one day becoming a translator. (The contract does not permit us to speak in English. I wouldn't mind, but they are the strict type.) My host mother told me that Diane had a miscarriage a short time ago, and that her and Charles have been very torn up about it. I like spending time with them, because I think it helps them to be distracted for a little while.

I suppose space doesn't permit me to expand on every single anecdote (of which there are many), and also there are a few involving my being severely lost late at night which will not be included (because my mum won't like reading about it). Suffice it to say that I am adjusting semi-quickly to life here in Paris, though I get lost multiple times, in multiple directions, daily. (Even though I carry three maps with me.)

Highlights thus far, you beg? Well, here is a point-form, sparknotes-style rundown of some of my fav memories thus far:

-spending the day touring a small museum in the Marais district with Charles and Diane, then having tea, hot chocolate, and macarons with them at Laduree

-going to a PSG game and seeing the crazy fans (video to follow)

-visiting a museum of experimental instruments with Mark Applebaum (our professor in residence 

who is researching this field at Stanford) (video to follow)

-going places with Midori

-eating formal dinners with the 

extended de Gatellier family (or their friends)

-staying out late with my peeps Ali, Ashley, Farrah, Hei Munn, JW, Midori, Mike

-walking through a Parisian market

-the walk to my painting class (best croque of my life)

-eating real ratatouille made for me by my host mum (who is from ratatouille central)

-being immersed in a land of art (and attempting to soak it all up)

-being the only one in my painting class at the advanced art school who has never painted (though my teachers tell me that my lemon was "very well done")

-window shopping. everywhere.

-watching Obama's inauguration with Americans

-getting a lesson on "how to properly cut cheese from the cheese platter" from my host parents

-learning that my host dad was scared to meet me because the description said I was "very athletic" and he thought that meant I would be an Amazon

-speaking French everywhere, and feeling it slowly seep back

-enjoying young guys playing/singing acoustic Rolling Stones (they were awesome!) on a train in the metro, then getting off the train and hearing some kind of Russian folk music in the station (also awesome, full ensemble) --> art in the metro is awesome!

-things I am forgetting!!

Hopefully I will be able to add to this list soon as things start coming back to me. It's taken me far too long to get a start on this, but hopefully I'll be able to make further (and better) use of this as the quarter progresses. For now, chers readers, au revoir! Look forward to updates, especially from this weekend in Dublin! (I am not looking forward to getting on my return flight, on my birthday, at 6am Dublin time! :)  )

bisous from France,

Jen

First Post!!

Hello everyone!

As it stands, I am running out the door to make an inauguration-watching party at Mark Applebaum's house (the prof in residence with us here).

I will try to update this blog ASAP with all of my adventures thus far, but I'm having internet problems!

A tout a l'heure!

<3!